CYCLING KORC?ULA
By Jane Cassie
We're on Korcula, (pronounced Kor-chu-la) Croatia's sixth-largest island, a forty-seven kilometre-long gem that's edged by beaches and quiet coves. Old Town is the primary magnet, a historical maze of charming streets that reflect four centuries of Venetian domain. And branching away from this historical hub are country roads that lead to quaint villages and tranquil shores.
Accompanied by our friends, Don and Sue Fisher, we decide to check out some of these sites on bikes. As well as an up-close encounter with the scenic country-side, this mode of transport will hopefully burn off some of the countless calories that we've recently consumed on our cruise ship.
Just steps from where our ship is docked, is a bike rental shop where we choose our two-wheelers and check out the suggested routes. From this main hub to the fishing village of Racisce we can parallel the shoreline that bisects a few peaceful towns. And after reaching our final destination, we'll have the opportunity to cool off with a swim. By the sounds of this ride, we just might have to, as it claims to be challenging and very curvy. Wanting something with less slope, we cross this one off the list.
The next option is cycling to the south part of the island where the beautiful bays of Orlandusa, Pavja Luka and Rashohatica await. Although we can't pronounce a single one of these havens, they all sound pretty idyllic. And we'd be able to free-wheel it all the way down to the shoreline once we reach them. The problem is the grunting ascent on the return. It claims to be a steeper ride and strictly for the hard-core. Off the list it goes.
Fortunately the five kilometre ride from Korcula to the seaside gem of Lumbarda seems doable for our aging quads. It's claimed to be an easier workout and only has a few hills.
"Switch it into low gear," my husband, Brent, calls out soon after we break away from the bustling city core and come to another rise. "And give it a little pedal power."Although my heart rate is already doing triple time, the ascents are moderate and I'm still able to enjoy the rolling views.
Like most of the Croatian islands, the interior is densely wooded with verdant pine. For this reason, the Greeks settlers, named it Black Corfu. And carved into this lush landscape are rows of grapes that will turn into some of Croatia's finest wines.
Orchards of olives also thrive here in the warmth of the sun. Drobnica and Lastovka are considered to be two of the best varieties as they are rich in polyphenols, making their oil incredibly healthy. Although tempted by all the offerings, we're literally on a roll so we pedal on by.
The welcoming seaside village of Lumbarda is snuggled into a picturesque bay. Red roofed homes nestle into its lush hillsides and sailboats bob in the clear-water harbour. Seasonal restaurants and taverns offer local specialties topped off with a view and kiosks promote a variety of activities, ranging from boat tours to water sports.
Fishermen, winegrowers and stone masons are the primary trades in this hamlet of twelve-hundred inhabitants. It also has a rich history that dates back to the Greek Times, more than two thousand years ago.
Researchers have even found evidence that the Illyrian tribes had once colonised the region and the beauty and allure of Lumbarda attracted prosperous shipbuilders as early as the 16th century who built summer houses called "kastels" around the village.
Our mission and reward for doing this Croatian spin class is some chill time at the beach. Nearby is the popular Bilin Zal, a sandy strip sheltered in a lagoon-like bay where we can re-energize at one of the two tapas cafes and recuperate on a rented deck chair.
"How about cycling just a little further," my energized husband, suggests. "Przinz is the largest and most popular beach on the island."
Although we're all ready for a bike break, the extra kilometre cycle ends up being worth the effort. This sensational strip of golden sand that's backed by lush olive trees overlooks Lastovo Channel and boasts unrestricted vistas that stretch to the horizon. And after quenching our thirst and satisfying our ravenous appetites at the beachside cafe, we stroll the half kilometre long shoreline and wade into the tepid Adriatic Sea. It's a grand finale to our day on the island of Korcula and one that we revel in before pedaling our way back to the ship.
IF YOU GO:
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Photos by Jane & Brent Cassie
#1_Old_Town_is_the_primary_magnet
#2_charming_streets_reflect_four_centuries_of_Venetian domain
#3_On_bikes_we_get_an_up-close_encounter_with_the_country-side
#4_enjoying_the_rolling_views
#5_grapes_that_will_turn_into_Croatia's_fine_wines
#6_ seaside_gem_of_Lumbarda
#7_wading_into_the_tepid_Adriatic_Sea