The buildings and trees flanking Merdeka Square in Kuala Lumpur glitter with thousands of tiny lights and there is a flutter of anticipation among the crowd.

The opening ceremonies of Malaysia's most spectacular event, Citrawarna 2000 or "Colours Of Malaysia" are about to commence. Timed to coincide with the King of Malaysia's 74th Birthday celebrations, this is the first Citrawarna of the new Millennium-an extravaganza of folk dances, traditional music and a parade of floats from Malaysia's 13 states and the federal territory of Kuala Lumpur. And, as luck would have it, our group of eight Canadians have been invited to the show.

The band breaks into a spirited rendition of the National Anthem to the backdrop of fireworks splaying across the night sky, and the gala begins. For the next three hours, we are held spellbound as Merdeka Square becomes a shifting kaleidoscope of dancers in shimmering traditional costumes and elaborate head-dresses, martial arts performers, drummers and choristers. Chinese dragons, bullock carts and painted peacocks dip and sway by us, and are followed by a display of huge, intricately decorated kites from Kelantan.

Folk dancers from Perak pound and stomp rice grains in a traditional Belotah performance, Indian classical themes are enacted by actors with elaborate make-up and kohl-rimmed eyes-and a tribal group, from Sarawak, whirls on stilts to a strong percussive drum-beat. The colour-splashed finale with all 4000 performers bowing to a wildly cheering audience, is a fitting culmination of our stay in Kuala Lumpur-a visit crammed with visual and sensory overload.

I'd come to Malaysia with stereotypical images of a third-world country-crowded narrow streets, beggars, litter and noisy traffic.

Was I ever wrong!

Kuala Lumpur is as sophisticated as any Western capital city. Orderly traffic flows along arterial six-lane freeways, public transport is fast and convenient, landscaped parks dot the cityscape, sidewalks are meticulously clean, and there is no evidence of anything remotely resembling a skid row neighbourhood in the city core. No pan-handlers. No hucksters, no drug peddlers (the death penalty is rigidly enforced) and no drunks-Islamic law is stern on these counts.

Yet, for all that, Islam here isn't as restrictive as in the Middle East. Women, clad in flowing Baju Kebayas, with flowered scarves draped over their heads, play a prominent role in the city's work-force.

Nightclubs, pubs and trendy discotheques pound rock music and seethe with activity into the wee small hours; the entertainment scene encompasses theatre performances, art gallery exhibitions and a variety of concerts from traditional to jazz. The magnificent Dewan Filharmonik Petronas Hall showcases the best in Western classical music.

KL's architecture is no less stunning: mosques with onion-shaped Moorish domes, a National Theatre, whose deep blue winged roof is a smaller, stylized version of Sydney's Opera House, and futuristic glass and concrete skyscrapers.

Our group goggles at the 452 metre high Petronas Twin Towers soaring against the city skyline like a gleaming steel-banded candelabrum. They each comprises 88 floors and are currently the world's tallest free-standing structures. Built with oil money, by the Government-owned Petronas Corporation, the Twin Towers, incorporate geometric designs symbolizing unity, harmony, stability and rationality, all of which are important facets of Islam. In that sense the Towers are a fitting symbol for Kuala Lumpur whose slick exterior overlays Malaysia's traditional Muslim culture.

>Food stall in Chinatown

Nowhere is the diversity of Malaysia's people (Malay, Chinese and Indian) so evident as in KL's street stall cuisine. We tucked into Malaysian Nasi Lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk and served with anchovies, squid, eggs, cucumber and chilli paste), skewered, marinated and grilled chicken Satay with lashings of peanut sauce and onions, Chinese spicy noodles, sweet and sour fish wrapped and steamed in banana leaves, and Indian roti canai and kurma mutton curry.

And aaahh...the shopping!

>Ranbutan Fruit Vendor

Apart from a bewildering number of expensive, upscale shopping malls-Chinatown after 7.30 p.m. is a bargain hunter's paradise. The street is closed to vehicular traffic, and I shoulder my way through narrow, thronged aisles flanked by booths offering "genuine fake" Gucci and Rolex watches (about Canadian $8-$10 each, after aggressive bargaining!), name-brand T-shirts, pirated software, CDs, electronic gadgetry, leather goods and jewellery.

Music blares, hawkers bawl or whisper seductively "best price, I give you, Madam, come look, look..." The heady smell of durian, mango, pineapple, rambutan (reddish hairy-skinned lychee-like fruit) and sizzling spices lies thickly on the humid night air.

In the words of the haunting Citrawarna anthem, this is "truly Asia"...except that, in fastidiously clean KL, even the tap water is safe to drink.

Getting There:

• Cathay Pacific and Singapore Airlines fly to Kuala Lumpur from Vancouver (check with your travel agent for fares/schedules).
• Malaysian Airlines (1-800-552-9264) offers superb service and excellent cuisine on their daily flights out of Los Angeles.
• For further information call Tourism Malaysia at 1-888-689-6872.

Where to Stay: Feel like revelling in sheer luxury?

>Sidewalk Cafe in Chinatown

For mid-priced accommodation, try Hotel Midah who offer rooms at special discounts for booking via the Internet: asiatravel.com/malaysia/midah/index.html

Highlights:
The fabulous Colours of Malaysia month-long festival takes place twice a year in May and September. Other worthwhile attractions in KL: The National Art Gallery, National Monument, National Theatre and the 91.6 hectare Lake Gardens with their amazing collection of orchids, hibiscus, butterflies, and birds.

By the Way:
For personalized package tours at very reasonable rates throughout Malaysia, contact K.S. Viji of Hamsa-Vahini Tours at vijay912@hotmail.com You'll be glad you did.

Margaret Deefholts is a freelance author and travel writer.