I am, of course, on the Nile-a river which has flowed through the arteries of ancient Egypt, nourished its heart-beat, and given life to an era which flourished for the better part of three centuries before the advent of Christianity. A culture which still has the power to awe us today.

The award-winning Imax film Mysteries of Egypt ends, and I close my eyes against the scroll of credits, seeing again those magnificent towering images of the temple bas reliefs of Abu Simbel, the mythical gods and goddesses depicted on the pillars and walls of Karnak and Luxor, and the ancient Egyptian pre-occupation with life after death as celebrated in the tombs of the Valley of the Kings.

Once out of the theatre, and I'm plunged back into the 21st century. Plunged also into a buzz of excitement at the Royal B.C. Museum in Victoria where Eternal Egypt: Masterworks of Ancient Art from the British Museum will, without question, be the most spectacular and ambitious exhibition ever undertaken by the Museum.

The displays will showcase 144 exhibits-a rich sampling of the best of the British Museum's Egyptian collection: intricate gold jewellery, gilded masks, a delicately wrought six inch glass Bolti fish perfume bottle, a 5000 year old ivory statue of a king and the Mummy of an unknown woman nicknamed "Nellie" who would have been around 20 years old when she died 2000 years ago.

It isn't often that one has the opportunity of a behind-the-scenes peek at what is involved with putting on an exhibition on such a vast scale. It is much like going into dusty back-stage theatre rooms, peering at half-completed scenery back-drops, gawking at the props and costumes and examining pots of make-up sitting on actors' dressing tables. The stage setting for the displays of Eternal Egypt is reminiscent of ancient Egyptian interiors: terracotta earth hues and pale yellow sandstone coloured walls.

Two of the most valuable pieces-a fragment of the 3000 year old Book of the Dead papyrus scroll and the flamboyant gold Mummy mask of Satdjehuty-will be set out under an atmospheric dark blue ceiling, patterned by five-pointed stars, a motif commonly used in Egypt's funerary tombs. The props range from brain hooks (used to remove this organ prior to mummification) to a 2000 year-old hawk mummy, replications of pottery wine jars, ritual couches, furniture, clothing, cosmetics, and a miniature Egyptian house.

The logistics of mounting Eternal Egypt are staggering.

Consider what is involved in transporting and putting into place a colossal red granite lion weighing 5,800 pounds or ensuring that the priceless original scrolls from the Egyptian Book of the Dead are protected from damage while in transit, and throughout the duration of the exhibition.

An engineering study has resulted in the installation of reinforced steel struts in walls and floors and a specially designed floating beam has been created to guard against seismic activity; elevators have been filled with sandbags to test their weight tolerance as, apart from the massive granite Lion of Amenhotep III, a 4,300 pound statue of Hathor, the cow-headed goddess, will also form part of the exhibition.

A gantry with geared pulleys will hoist the Goddess of Fertility to the top of a two metre column, and over 100 specially constructed components such as display cases and pedestals have been fashioned to protect artifacts from dust, temperature, dryness and ultraviolet light. And what, you may well ask, is the insured value of these rare exhibits? A cool 600 million dollars!

Although the Eternal Egypt event includes some of the world's most exquisite artifacts, this is no static exhibition. It is designed to titillate the senses and provoke curiosity.

The sights, sounds and smells of ancient Egypt will envelop visitors who stroll through the hubbub of a market-place: stalls stocked with pomegranates, dates, nuts and spices such as myrrh and frankincense, displays of jewellery, cosmetic creams and wigs.

Visitors will watch a chef prepare a traditional Egyptian meal; they will learn the art of distilling perfume, touch and don period costumes, find out how to apply henna tattoos, take in a pottery making demonstration, and get the lowdown on embalming techniques used in the mummification process.

As part of their journey through time, audiences will delve into the mysteries of magical rituals and spells, and decide for themselves whether the legendary Mummy's curse is true or false. Youthful imaginations will be stirred by the opportunity to try their hand at making papyrus scrolls, reed pens and experimenting with pigments used in painting hieroglyphics.

As part of the anticipatory thrill, various off-site events are also in the works.

The Gatsby Mansion Inn are offering an accommodation/tour package which includes the opportunity of seeing the intriguing Heavens of the Pharaohs show (viewing the ancient Egyptian constellations of mythical gods and beasts) at Centre of the Universe Astrophysical site in Saanich; Spinnakers Brewpub & Guesthouse invite visitors to quaff just as I did, their specially brewed "King Tut's Tipple" ale and enjoy a meal of Egyptian delicacies fit for a Pharaoh.

My West Coast Air float-plane rumbles out of the harbour and banks over the Royal Museum, en-route to Vancouver. My day has been - as Museum CEO, Pauline Rafferty, aptly puts it - filled with "curiosity and wonder".

I can hardly wait to return to Victoria when the curtain actually goes up on the fabled glories of Eternal Egypt in July.

About the photos:
1: The "Nellie" Mummy Mask. Royal BC Museum photo..
2: Master potter Harry Wong, working in his studio on the replication of an Egyptian
wine jar. Margaret Deefholts photo.
3: What the label of Spinnakers "King Tut's Tipple" looks like! Margaret Deefholts
photo.
4: The terminal of West Coast Air. Margaret Deefholts photo.
5: The Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa. Margaret Deefholts photo.

IF YOU GO:

Eternal Egypt: Masterworks of Ancient Art from the British Museum at the Royal B.C. Museum in Victoria, B.C. runs from July 10th to October 31st 2004. For information on ticket prices (on sale now at time-sensitive discounted prices) operating hours, and a schedule of Special Events, visit their web-site at: http://rbcm1.rbcm.gov.bc.ca/visit-museum/egypt/index.html

Getting There:

West Coast Air offers thirty-two scheduled departures on business days aboard their Twin Otter float planes between downtown Vancouver (Coal Harbour alongside Canada Place) and the Victoria's Inner Harbour (fronting the Empress Hotel). For further information call reservations at 604-606-6888 or toll free 1-800-347-2222, or visit their website: www.westcoastair.com

(West Coast Air also offer Adventure and Scenic Tours from both Vancouver and Victoria)

Harbour Air Seaplanes offer flights from Coal Harbour to Victoria's Inner Harbour Website: www.harbour-air.com

B.C. Ferries offer several daily sailings between Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay. Check out their web-site for schedule and fare information at www.bcferries.bc.ca

Pacific Coach Lines schedules and prices can be accessed at www.pacificcoach.com

Where To Stay:

Specially designed packages are offered by:

Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa whose Mummy Package includes one night's accommodation for two adults and two kids, a Continental family breakfast and an evening story time session for kids. For further information click on www.deltahotels.com/hotels/specials.do?categoryId=12&hotelId=51#2061

The Gatsby Mansion Inn will offer visitors their deluxe Heavens of the Pharaohs package which includes a two nights' accommodation in the 1890s Gatsby Mansion Inn, two gourmet breakfasts, admission to the Eternal Egypt exhibit, the Imax theatre, and a chauffeur driven limousine to the Centre of the Universe show as well as a Pharaoh candlelit dinner of authentic Egyptian cuisine. Phone toll free: 1-800-563-9656 or visit their website for further information at www.bellevillepark.com

In addition to the above, several other hotels are also offering attractively priced packages. Click on www.tourismvictoria.com/egypt for more details.

Culinary Treats:

Not to be missed, is a meal at Spinnakers Brewpub & Guesthouse, who have concocted a specially brewed beer labelled "King Tut's Tipple" (a palate-pleasing combination of pale ale and ammer wheat extract, enlivened by the flavour of figs and star anise), to accompany a gourmet selection of Egyptian cuisine: prawn and squid soup, lamb balls, mint marinated chicken on a bed of Egyptian rice, lentils and a fig-almond desert. They are also delighted to accommodate guests in their Heritage Guesthouse. Click on www.spinnakers.com for more information.

Other Information:

The Centre of the Universe wing of the Herzberg Institute of Astrophysics (Saanich) invites astronomers (both hobbyists and experts) to visit their facility. Contact Michael Shepard, Information Officer at (250) 363-8062 or e-mail him at Michael Shepard@nrc-cnrc.ga.ca

Margaret Deefholts is a Canadian author and freelance travel writer/photographer.